Sunday, October 21, 2007

Absolutely plum


Back in the days when I was a bored corporate drone, I was a competitive cook. I had a large group of friends who were all also bored corporate drones, and we relieved our boredom by entertaining one another with wildly complex and fussy gourmet dinners. Foodie fundamentalism of the Everything from Scratch manifesto. Reduction sauces that took four days to make. Carefully stacked towers of --- well, pretty much everything. Every piece of cookware crusted with dreck and later handwashed, because my corporate dronehood was not the sort that came with an enormous Bateman-style crib of chrome, glass and dishwashers.

So much for that stage of my life. Now I'm into more deliciousness, less palaver.

The instruction to watch out for the case of a cake is the dead giveaway: "In another bowl ..."

No no no. No other bowls, thank you very much. Before you know it there will be exhortations to add four different kinds of mixture alternately with a cooled melted batch of something which must then be folded gently into some eggwhites whisked to soft peaks. Whisked in another bowl, naturally.

My stalwart and justly famous chocolate cake requires a single bowl, and doesn't even need me to break out my fire-engine red KitchenAid mixer. (Although I confess this may be a demerit). In general, I'm prepared to tolerate two bowls. That rules out almost everything which requires whipped eggwhite, and I court controversy now by telling you, one and all: forget any cake which would have you whip eggwhite. So not worth it. Right now there is a cake waiting for you to bake it which is just as delicious and twice as impressive as any of those which preciously claim to be light and fluffy on account of the blessed whipped albumen. And this from a chick with a mixer that whips three of the gelatinous little bastards into soft peaks in 55 seconds, so trust me.

All of this, cooks and cake-lovers, to introduce a cake I baked for the first time last week which at a stretch meets the Two-Bowl Limit, but it's rather moot by dint of being a palaver. But oh, mercy -- it is so worth it. The wonderful, wonderful moody dark sweet-and-sourness of autumn English plums, zinged up with sugar and cinnamon and baked onto an almondy, buttery puck of batter like a rich fruity openfaced sandwich. Pink plummy stains in the slices, warm spiced air all through the house.

The recipe is named after a German friend of great Australian chef Stephanie Alexander's family, who first gave it to them. The recipe is for a 28cm springform, which is an enormous tin -- the typical one is about 23cm. I baked mine, appropriately, in my fabulous dark-blue enamel Dr Oetker 26cm springform which Pluvialis brought back from Germany for me -- that was the trip where she and JH Prynne greeted a goat in a German forest.

I didn't cut down the quantity, figuring that I could leave aside what batter was oversupplied. Alexander cautions that it is important there not be too thick a layer of cake, an admonition I endorse having made it. On consideration, I'd reduce the quantities by a third for my tin. If you have an everyday springform, I'd halve this recipe.

Ripen your plums really well -- arrange them on a plate and admire their dusky-cheeked bloom for a few days. Eat one or two. Do you see those tiny rednesses, like miniscule plummy blood vessels? Your plum is ready.

You must serve the cake warm. The recipe (which is from The Cook's Companion) suggests that you can warm leftover cake in the oven for 15 minutes wrapped in foil, so I did that for my dinner guests. But since then I've had brilliant tea-break success whirling a slice in the microwave for 25 seconds. Indistinguishable. And ready before the kettle boils ...

Mieze's plum cake

275g softened unsalted butter
250g sugar
200g plain flour
200g self-raising flour
pinch of salt
3 eggs, lightly beaten
100ml milk
1 cup ground almonds
12-15 plums, halved and stoned

Topping
125g butter
200g sugar
2tsp ground cinnamon
4 eggs

Preheat oven to 180°C and lightly grease a 28cm springform tin. Cream butter and sugar together until light and fluffy, then mix in flours and salt. Add eggs and milk to make a soft dough. (The mixture should drop easily off the spoon). Spoon batter into prepared tin (it should not fill more than a quarter of the depth as the cake rises a great deal) then sprinkle over ground almonds. Arrange plums, cut-side up, on the top, starting with the outside edge and working toward the centre. For the topping, melt butter and stir in sugar and cinnamon, then allow to cool. Whisk eggs well and stir into cooled butter mixture. Spoon over and around plums. Bake for 1 hour until cake tests done in the centre. Serve warm with cream or icecream.

Xtin's Extra Notes

I never bother to whisk eggs that are about to be added to batter in my mixer. Gratuitous waste of Another Bowl. The instructions are interesting because you would usually add the eggs to the creamed butter and sugar and then the flour and milk to that. I found that the order suggested gave a different texture than my usual buttercake batters, so I'd stick to the instructions. One day I'm going to do it the other way to see if it has an impact.

The genius of this cake is the layer of ground almonds which separates the plum-and-cinnamon layer from the cake beneath -- otherwise the plums would just sink to the bottom of the batter. Pile the almond a little more thickly at the edges of the tin, or your plums will fall down the outside edge. Not that this happened to me.

10 comments:

Krista said...

Oh, I knew I liked you. I'll definitely make this if more plums arrive in the CSA box. This week, I'm wrestling a metric ton of apples. Last night was four hours of apple butter-makin'. If you lived closer, I'd bring you some.

Xtin said...

I'm so happy to confirm your suspicions, Krista!

And day-um, I am going to try hard not to think about apple butter now.

Nope, can't do it. Need recipe.

Scrivener said...

I not only knew I liked you but was very firmly on record as such, so I can't really point to this post as a kind of turning point, but it does just add a couple more ounces to the likingness. I don't think I'm allowed to make any cakes that are not Halloween-themed for the next few weeks, but if the kids ever quit demanding that we make the graveyard scenes and spider web desserts, then I will happily try this one. Alternately, once my life settles down a bit and I restart the biweekly dinners, I will make one of these for one of them.

Wanna come over for dinner? Like you, I no longer do the wildly elaborate gourmet meals, but I make good, simple fare and have a bunch of very cool and interesting people over to share it with me.

Xtin said...

Scriv, I *absolutely* want to come over for dinner. That would rockmy socks. One day, we will really get to do that.

And I'm not at all convinced that this cake isn't Halloween themed. It looks pretty when sliced and decorously dusted with some sugar, but before then it looks like the roasted entrails of something, what with all the squishy plumitude and crispy cinnamon-egginess. I say call it Blood and Guts Cake and go forth into the kitchen with E and C.

Edmund said...

I have acquired the plums. Tomorrow it will be.

Krista said...

I used this recipe, which is dead simple: http://www.101cookbooks.com/archives/000125.html. Since I'm not canning, though, I think I'll use less sugar next time. Or maybe none at all.

Xtin said...

Ooooh num num num num. Gotta try that.

Reid Farmer said...

Looks like a wonderful recipe which I will definitely try. Now that the weather is cool it's the baking time of year. I will have to post my pumpkin-chocolate chip muffin recipe sometime soon.

Shows just how provincial I am that it was disconcerting to see a recipe given with metric measures!

Heidi the Hick said...

WWWWow.

I am such a chicken with the baking.

Actually, before I had my "little breakdown" I used to go through cookbooks and make these wonderful healthy well balanced and adventurous meals that my two small kids would look at and whine, "What iiiis iiiitttttt?" but of course having a tyrannical mother, had to eat it. They lived. I'm slowly reclaiming my kitchen.

I love good food. The only thing that makes it better is good company.

You crack me up with the bowl limit! I'm with you there, dude. Never had a dishwasher, in any place I've lived. I have a choc cake recipe that only requires ONE PAN and it is amazing!

Scrivener said...

This isn't really self-promotion, just that I've noticed you haven't been around and want you to see the new Scrivenings.

Well, ok, it's a little bit self-promotion.